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    Size
    Large to Giant (27Kg +)
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    Exercise
    40 min/day
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    Training
    Weekly
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    Size of home
    House with garden
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    Time at home
    Alone with support
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    Grooming
    Weekly
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    Barking preference
    Watchdog barking
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    Personality
    Independent + affectionate
  • Breeder - Mr Jamie Clapham
    Breeder - Mr Jamie Clapham (Casperscove)

    saints@casperscove.com.au

    See Details
  • Breeder - Mrs E Remme
    Breeder - Mrs E Remme (Heiliger)

    stbernards@live.com.au

    See Details
Puppy

History

The St. Bernard is named after the Great Saint Bernard Hospice, founded in 1049 as a refuge for travellers in the Great St. Bernard Pass, which passes between the two highest summits of the Swiss Alps, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, to connect Switzerland and Italy.

It is believed that the breed originated at this hospice in the mid-17th century, from large, Mastiff-like dogs and local Swiss breeds, and they were used as rescue dogs for lost travellers in the region.

In the 19th century, exports of St. Bernards saw their popularity grow overseas. Queen Victoria owned two St. Bernards in the 1840s, and they were very popular as companion dogs among the upper classes.

A Breed Standard was created in the 1880s, and breed clubs were formed in Switzerland as well as England and the US, at this time. The St. Bernard is now recognised as Switzerland’s national dog.

Appearance

The two varieties of the breed are both very large, and differ only in coat. The short-haired variety was used for rescues in the Alps, as the coat of the long-haired variety would have been impractical in the snow. Their appearance is impressive, with a large and powerful head, sturdy body and alert expression. Saint Bernards of either coat variety are primarily white, with reddish-brown patches or mantle, and dark markings on the head.

Temperament

The St. Bernard is known for its gentle and calm temperament. They are affectionate and loyal dogs that get along well with children and other pets. St. Bernards are very intelligent, enjoy learning and are usually very eager to please.

St Bernard on mountainside

Suitability

St. Bernards, like a lot of breeds, love to be in the house relaxing with the family but, as there will be times when the dog will be outside, it is important to have a secure and fully fenced yard. If your St. Bernard is going to live outdoors, ensure that it has a well insulated kennel that can be kept dry, clean and as cool as possible in the hotter months, as well as fresh, clean drinking water available at all times.

Access to slippery surfaces (such as slippery tiles, polished floors or steps) should be blocked while the dog is growing from puppyhood to young adulthood.

Health

There are a number of conflicting ideas on the ideal diet to rear a St. Bernard puppy. Unfortunately no universal, foolproof diet exists. Individual dogs have individual requirements, dependent upon bloodlines, age, size, environment and activity levels.

Reputable breeders advise purchasers on their recommended diets, and it is generally best to follow the program already commenced by the breeder. If no advice is available from the breeder consult your veterinarian.

The main mistakes new owners make are over feeding, over-supplementing with vitamins and additives and feeding an imbalanced diet.

A predominantly meat-based diet can cause imbalances in the calcium-phosphorus ratio, as meat is very high in phosphorus and low in calcium, and the correct balance of calcium is necessary for correct bone growth and to minimise bone disorders.

Most reputable processed dry foods (kibble or processed meat substitutes) are reasonably well balanced, so that if you feed your dog the recommended amounts the diet should be sufficiently balanced in calcium, phosphorus, protein and calories.

Ensure water is readily available when feeding kibble, and you can also add water to the kibble. The most important point to remember is not to over-supplement the diet with vitamins and additives. A puppy that is fed a diet too high in vitamins can develop problems just as serious as one that is victim to lack of nutrition. Balance is the key.

Grooming

Regular combing and brushing of St. Bernards is essential, as it removes dust, loose hairs, grass seeds, tangles and avoids matting of the coat. When brushing, pay particular attention to the feet, under the forearms and rear end. A dog that is dirty or smells should be bathed, but this should not be more than once a week. A dog shampoo should be used and should be thoroughly rinsed from the coat. Your breeder or local groomer can advise you on grooming your St. Bernard.

Exercise

There are many theories on the amount of exercise a young pup needs, ranging between the extremes of not exercising it at all until it is at least six months old, to running it five kilometres a day. Moderation is the key. While all care can be taken in breeding to help minimise such things as hip problems, if the dog lacks muscle development the hip socket, no matter how well formed, has no muscle to hold it in place. However, excessive exercise for puppies under 9-12 months of age can cause damage to undeveloped bones and joints, so care must be taken not to over exercise a young dog.

If the pup is naturally active, playing in the backyard or running around on acreage, it probably will not require any extra exercise. However, if it prefers to sleep all day, waking only for meal times, then moderate exercise for necessary muscle development may be required. On a daily walk, gauge the distance by your own dog. Don’t force it to do a set distance each day. As it gets older, it will obviously be able to and want to walk further, but always let it be the guide as to how far it can go. It should still be reasonably active by the time you return home, rather than exhausted, dragging behind you or insisting on being carried.

Your pup should look forward to going on its walk with you, as this is the time to investigate new smells, trees and lamp posts. You name it, your pup will investigate it, while enjoying your undivided attention. It’s also a good opportunity for obedience or lead training. Saint Bernards are very intelligent (looks can be deceiving), enjoy learning and are usually very eager to please.

Information from The St Bernard Club Inc

In Conclusion

Now you know a little about the St. Bernard, you may have think that this is the dog for you. Before you make a decision, please make contact with the breed club or your State controlling body for purebred dogs. They will be able to give you information about available puppies and also suggest dog shows where you can see the breed and speak to breeders. In this way you will gain a better perspective of the St. Bernard and its needs and whether this breed would suit your lifestyle.

 

Official breed standard as recognized by Dogs NSW (Last Updated: 03 Jun 2016)

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Breed Standard - St. Bernard

A breed standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament, and appearance of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function with soundness essential. Breeders and judges should at all times be mindful of features which could be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or soundness of this breed.

General Appearance

There are two varieties of the St Bernard; Short-haired variety ("Stockhaar", smooth coat). Long-haired variety (Rough coat). Both varieties are of considerable size and of impressive appearance. They have a balanced, powerful, sturdy, muscular body with an impressive head and an alert facial expression. Important proportions: " Ideal relation of height at withers to length of body (measured from the point of shoulder to the point of buttocks) = 9:10. " For the ideal relation of height at withers to depth of chest see the sketch below. " The total length of the head is slightly more than one third of the height at the withers. " The relation of the depth of muzzle (measured at its root) to the length of muzzle is almost 2:1. " Length of muzzle is slightly longer than one third of the total length of the head.

Characteristics

Utilisation: Companion, watch and farm dog.

Temperament

Friendly by nature. Temperament calm to lively; watchful.

Physical Standards

Head and Skull Powerful, imposing and very expressive.Cranial region:Skull: Strong, broad when seen in profile and from the front slightly rounded. When the dog is alert, the set-on of the ears and the top of the skull form a straight line, which slopes at the sides in a gentle curve to the strongly developed high cheekbones. Forehead falling away steeply towards the muzzle. Occipital bone only moderately developed, superciliary ridges strongly developed. The frontal furrow, which starts at the base of the forehead, is distinctly developed and runs up right in the middle of the skull. The skin of the forehead forms slight wrinkles above the eyes that converge towards the frontal furrow. When the dog is at attention, they are moderately visible: otherwise they are inconspicuous.Stop: Distinctly pronounced.Muzzle: Of even width. Nasal bridge straight, with slight groove.Nose: Black, broad and square. Nostrils well opened.Lips: Edge of lips black pigmented. Flews of upper jaw strongly developed, firm and not too pendulous, forming a wide curve towards the nose. Corners of the mouth remain visible.
Eyes Of medium size. Colour dark brown to nut-brown. Moderately deep set with a friendly expression. Natural tightness of lids desired. A very small angular fold on the lower lids with the haws only very slightly visible as well as a small fold on the upper lids is permitted. Eyerims completely pigmented.
Ears Of medium size, set on high and wide. Strongly developed burrs. Flaps pliable and triangular with rounded tips. The rear edges slightly standing off and the front edges lying close to the cheeks.
Mouth The upper and lower jaws are strong, broad and equal in length. Well developed, regular and complete scissor or pincer bite. Close fitting undershot mouth without any space between the lower and upper incisors acceptable. Absence of PM1 (premolar 1) and M3 is tolerated.
Neck Strong and of sufficient length. Dewlap and loose skin on the neck moderately developed.
Forequarters The forelegs are straight and parallel when seen from the front. Stands moderately broad.Shoulders: Shoulder blades oblique, muscular and well attached to the chest wall.Upper arm: Longer than the shoulder blade. The angle between shoulder blade and the upper arm not too blunt.Elbow: Close fitting. Forearm: Straight, strong in bone, with lean musculature.Pasterns: Seen from the front, vertical in prolongation of the forearms. Slightly oblique when seen from the side.
Body The general appearance imposing, balanced, impressive and well muscled.Withers: Well defined.Chest: Brisket moderately deep with well sprung ribs, but not barrel shaped. Does not project below the elbow level.Back: Broad, strong and firm. Topline straight and horizontal up to the loins.Croup: Long and hardly sloping. Merging gently with the root of the tail.Belly and underline: Slight tuck up towards the rear.
Hindquarters Muscular with moderate angulation. Seen from the back the hind legs are parallel, not standing closely together.Upper thigh: Strong, muscular and broad.Stifle: Well angulated and turning neither in nor out.Lower thigh: Slanting and rather long.Hock joints: Slightly angulated and firm.Metatarsus: Straight and parallel when seen from behind.
Feet Broad with strong, tight and well-arched toes. Dewclaws on the hind legs are tolerated if they do not hinder the movement.
Tail Set-on broad and strong. The tail is long and heavy. The last vertebra at least reaching to the hock joint. When in repose, the tail hangs straight down or slightly upturned in the lower third. When animated it is carried higher.
Gait/Movement Harmonious far reaching movement with good drive from the hindquarters with the back remaining stable and firm. Front and hind feet move forward in a straight line.
Coat Short-haired variety:Topcoat dense, smooth, close-lying and coarse. Plenty of undercoat. Thighs have slight breeches. Tail covered with dense hair.Long-haired variety:Topcoat plain, of medium length with plenty of undercoat. Short hair on the face and ears. Hair over the haunches and the croup usually somewhat wavy. Front legs feathered. Thighs with good breeches. Bushy tail.
Colour Primary colour is white with smaller or larger clear red patches (splash-coated dogs) up to an unbroken clear to dark red mantle covering the back and flanks (mantle dogs). A broken reddish-brown mantle is of equal value. A brindle reddish-brown colour is permissible. Brownish-yellow tolerated. Dark shadings on the head desirable. Slight touch of black shading on the body is tolerated.Required white markings: Chest, feet, tip of tail, muzzle band, blaze and patch on the neck. Desired markings: White collar. Symmetrical dark mask.
Size Height at withers:Males: 70 cm to 90 cm (27 ½ to 35 ½ inches)Bitches : 65 cm to 80 cm (25 ½ to 31 ½ inches)Dogs, which exceed the maximum height, will not be penalised, provided their general appearance is balanced and their movement is correct.

Faults

Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.- Lack of sexual characteristics.- Unbalanced general appearance.- Too short on leg in relation to size (short legged).- Heavy folds on the head and neck.- Muzzle too short or too long.- Flews of the lower jaw turning outwards.- Missing teeth other than PM1 (premolar1) and M3. Small teeth, especially incisors.- Slightly undershot mouth.- Light eyes.- Eyelids too loose.- Sway back or roach back.- Croup higher than the withers or falling away.- Tail carried curled on the back.- Absence of required markings.- Crooked or severely turned out front legs.- Poorly angulated, open-hocked or cow-hocked hindquarters.- Faulty movement.- Curly coat.- Incomplete or totally absent pigmentation on nose leather, around the nose or on the lips or the eyelids.- Faulty primary colour e.g. reddish-brown dots or ticks in the white.SEVERE FAULTS:- Too short legs in relation to size (short-legged).- Heavy folds on head and neck.- Crooked or severely turned out front legs.- Poorly angulated, open-hocked or cow-hocked hindquarters.DISQUALIFYING FAULTS:- Aggressive or overly shy dogs.- Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.- Weak temperament.- Overshot mouth, distinctly undershot mouth.- Wall eye.- Ectropion, entropion.- Solid white or solid reddish-brown coat (absence of the primary colour).- Coat of any other colour as well as flesh coloured nostrils (nostrils without pigmentation).- Height at withers below the minimum size.Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.

Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.